GEM Days 14b/14: Contour II a.k.a. Swan Song – Sat 30 Nov 2024
Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
Razor: GEM Contour II
Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
Lather: Barrister and Mann – Brew Ha-Ha
Post Shave: Barrister and Mann – Leviathan
Over the last two weeks, I ran through all† 14 generations of GEM-style razor. When comparing the major safety razor families DE, GEM, injector, Artist Club and One Blade/Valet, the GEM family is my favourite, gives me the best safety razor shaves, and the only type of blade that I’ve ever taken to 100 uses. It was a fun little project to go through the different concepts in chronological order and compare their designs, their manufacturing quality, and how they shave.
One thing that struck me is how ASR had many of the most clever designs in safety razor manufacture, but the one that stuck around was their first, and cheapest: the 1912 with a simple leaf spring pressing on the spine and a double leaf spring locking the top cap. ASR came out with four alternatives, the 1914, its improved version the 1924 Shovelhead, the Micromatic and the Pushbutton. They all had advantages over the original design but didn’t stick around, and ultimately none of the ASR razors could stand up to the DE competition.
This little experiment confirmed that the Micromatics stand out for me as the best safety razors I know, but even the Contour II gave me a great shave with Softheart Brew Ha-Ha today. These things shave well.
This shave concludes the 2024 edition of BBS November for me, my fourth, and it was a very nice experience again.
† As mentioned in the first instalment, there are some razors I don’t have, such as the 1906, the OC Damaskeen, a first generation Streamline/Jewel or the elusive adjustable Pushbutton.
It was a pleasure reading all about the different razors and I learned a lot. Unfortunately there was a database error and we have to restore a 3 week old backup, but I’m sure you’ll understand.
GEM Days 14b/14: Contour II a.k.a. Swan Song – Sat 30 Nov 2024
Over the last two weeks, I ran through all† 14 generations of GEM-style razor. When comparing the major safety razor families DE, GEM, injector, Artist Club and One Blade/Valet, the GEM family is my favourite, gives me the best safety razor shaves, and the only type of blade that I’ve ever taken to 100 uses. It was a fun little project to go through the different concepts in chronological order and compare their designs, their manufacturing quality, and how they shave.
One thing that struck me is how ASR had many of the most clever designs in safety razor manufacture, but the one that stuck around was their first, and cheapest: the 1912 with a simple leaf spring pressing on the spine and a double leaf spring locking the top cap. ASR came out with four alternatives, the 1914, its improved version the 1924 Shovelhead, the Micromatic and the Pushbutton. They all had advantages over the original design but didn’t stick around, and ultimately none of the ASR razors could stand up to the DE competition.
This little experiment confirmed that the Micromatics stand out for me as the best safety razors I know, but even the Contour II gave me a great shave with Softheart Brew Ha-Ha today. These things shave well.
This shave concludes the 2024 edition of BBS November for me, my fourth, and it was a very nice experience again.
† As mentioned in the first instalment, there are some razors I don’t have, such as the 1906, the OC Damaskeen, a first generation Streamline/Jewel or the elusive adjustable Pushbutton.
1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene1914-1927: 19141924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)1958-1965: Push Button1965-1973: ContourI agree completely. The MMOC continues to be my overall favorite safety razor. Blade feel, handling, and elegant design seem perfect.
Thanks, again, for doing this series. I truly enjoyed it. And, congrats on your fourth BBS November!
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it :)
Congrats to you too! One more successful BBS November in the books.
This was a great series, I learned a ton.
You’ve definitely motivated me to secure more Micromatics! :)
Thanks for the kind words!
A fun side tunnel of the rabbit hole, and one of the most affordable :)
It was a pleasure reading all about the different razors and I learned a lot. Unfortunately there was a database error and we have to restore a 3 week old backup, but I’m sure you’ll understand.
Just kidding!
lol!
Thanks for the kind words!