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Cake day: June 9th, 2023

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  • TabTue 03 Dec 2024

    • Brush: Dogwood Handcrafts Tabak Oridjinal, now with 28 mm Gelousy knot
    • Razor: Weck Sextoblade (red translucent scales)
    • Blade: Kismet Rostfrei, Polymer beschichtet
    • Lather: Mäurer & Wirtz – Tabac Original
    • Post Shave: Mäurer & Wirtz – Tabac Original
    • Fragrance: Mäurer & Wirtz – Tabac Original

    I found this red scaled Wectoblade on eBay a few weeks ago. It was caked with hard layers of grime, but also super cheap, so I took a chance and it came over the pond in my most recent reshipper bundle. After a few rounds in the ultrasonic cleaner and scratching the verdigris off the rivets it is now almost pristine.

    After a long and Tabac-free November, this Tabac Tuesday was a delight. What started as a meme has become an uplifting little ritual.



  • Mon 02 Dec 2024 - Back to straights

    • Brush: Dogwood Handcrafts - Papa Eld with Declaration Grooming B3 knot
    • Razor: Thiers Issard 14 Médaille d’Or 1921 Exposition d’Algier Acier Spécial (7/8", extra hollow, square point, carbon steel)
    • Lather: House of Mammoth – Shire
    • Post Shave: Summer Break Soaps – Winter Break
    • Fragrance: House of Mammoth – Shire 2

    Oh what joy! I enjoyed going through a good part of my safety razor collection last month, but a nice morning shave with a smooth and sharp straight is something else.

    This cosmetically challenged Thiers Issard 14 is a great shaver and Shire is a fantastic start into the day and the week. I combined it with Winter Break today to give a more wintery twist.


  • Sun 01 Dec 2024

    • Brush: Dogwood Handcrafts - Papa Eld with Declaration Grooming B3 knot
    • Razor: Occam’s Razors – the SEnoch
    • Blade: Feather Professional
    • Lather: Barrister and Mann – Nocturne
    • Post Shave: Barrister and Mann – Nocturne

    First use with the Occam’s. I jumped on the opportunity when a discord member decided to move his.

    I’m not sure yet how much I like it. I struggled a bit finding and maintaining the right angle at first, but I ended up getting a good enough evening shave. So no red flags, no love at first shave.

    Nocturne++;






  • GEM Days 14b/14: Contour II a.k.a. Swan Song – Sat 30 Nov 2024

    • Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
    • Razor: GEM Contour II
    • Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
    • Lather: Barrister and Mann – Brew Ha-Ha
    • Post Shave: Barrister and Mann – Leviathan

    Over the last two weeks, I ran through all† 14 generations of GEM-style razor. When comparing the major safety razor families DE, GEM, injector, Artist Club and One Blade/Valet, the GEM family is my favourite, gives me the best safety razor shaves, and the only type of blade that I’ve ever taken to 100 uses. It was a fun little project to go through the different concepts in chronological order and compare their designs, their manufacturing quality, and how they shave.

    One thing that struck me is how ASR had many of the most clever designs in safety razor manufacture, but the one that stuck around was their first, and cheapest: the 1912 with a simple leaf spring pressing on the spine and a double leaf spring locking the top cap. ASR came out with four alternatives, the 1914, its improved version the 1924 Shovelhead, the Micromatic and the Pushbutton. They all had advantages over the original design but didn’t stick around, and ultimately none of the ASR razors could stand up to the DE competition.

    This little experiment confirmed that the Micromatics stand out for me as the best safety razors I know, but even the Contour II gave me a great shave with Softheart Brew Ha-Ha today. These things shave well.

    This shave concludes the 2024 edition of BBS November for me, my fourth, and it was a very nice experience again.

    † As mentioned in the first instalment, there are some razors I don’t have, such as the 1906, the OC Damaskeen, a first generation Streamline/Jewel or the elusive adjustable Pushbutton.

    1. 1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene
    2. 1914-1927: 1914
    3. 1924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead
    4. 1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)
    5. 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)
    6. 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
    7. 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
    8. 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
    9. 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
    10. 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
    11. 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
    12. 1958-1965: Push Button
    13. 1965-1973: Contour
    14. 1973-1979: Contour II (The last GEM razor)We are here

  • GEM Days 14a/14: Contour II a.k.a. Swan Song – Sat 30 Nov 2024

    • Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
    • Razor: GEM Contour II
    • Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
    • Lather: Declaration Grooming – Tribute
    • Post Shave: Saponificio Varesino - Settantesimo
    • Fragrance: Stirling Soap Co. – Executive Man

    This is shave 27 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors, and I have reached the Contour II

    The Contour II

    Here, ASR dropped all pretense and gave up on any cleverness or quality. The plastic push-button mechanism was apparently too complicated to manufacture, so they dropped it. Back to the 1912 mechanism that was their initial fallback after the days of Micromatic glory. They didn’t change the base plate though so now it still has gaping slots for leaf springs that aren’t there anymore.

    The original Countour top cap didn’t fit anymore, so they just went back to the top cap of the Featherweight. This top cap needs a thick leaf spring to hold in open or shut and it kind of fits, to they bolted that on too. Add a cheap handle to this heap of spare parts (I’m exaggerating a bit here) et voilà, you have a Frankenendling to conclude the GEM story line with a whimper.

    Add poor QA on the plating for good measure. This NOS razor never left its original clam shell packaging before taking these pictures, and it has plating loss and verdigris around the hinge and where the safety bar is joined to the base plate, for instance, while early ASR razors have legendary thick plating often going strong after100 years in dirty storage.

    The shave

    Nice, and uneventful shave with the mild Contour II, tribute and a a few summery dupes.

    The timeline

    1. 1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene
    2. 1914-1927: 1914
    3. 1924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead
    4. 1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)
    5. 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)
    6. 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
    7. 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
    8. 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
    9. 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
    10. 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
    11. 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
    12. 1958-1965: Push Button
    13. 1965-1973: Contour
    14. 1973-1979: Contour II (The last GEM razor)We are here


  • GEM Days 13b/14: Push That Button 2, the Contour – Fri 29 Nov 2024

    • Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
    • Razor: GEM Contour
    • Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
    • Lather: Declaration Grooming – Chaotic Neutral
    • Post Shave: Noble Otter – 茉莉綠茶

    Nice tea combo for a calm Friday evening shave.

    This was shave 26 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors:

    1. 1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene
    2. 1914-1927: 1914
    3. 1924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead
    4. 1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)
    5. 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)
    6. 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
    7. 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
    8. 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
    9. 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
    10. 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
    11. 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
    12. 1958-1965: Push Button
    13. 1965-1973: ContourWe are here
    14. 1973-1979: Contour II (The last GEM razor)


  • GEM Days 13a/14: Push That Button 2, the Contour or Statis – Fri 29 Nov 2024

    • Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
    • Razor: GEM Contour
    • Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
    • Lather: Declaration Grooming – Massacre of the Innocents
    • Post Shave: Stirling Soap Co. – Haverford
    • Fragrance: Tom Ford – Tobacco Vanille

    This is shave 25 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors, and I have reached the penultimate GEM, the Contour, or when ASR stopped trying

    The Contour

    At this point, ASR has given up. The Contour brings nothing new to the table and is just a cheaper version of the Push-Button with a slightly modified handle design and no more gold plating. That’s it.

    The head is remained the same, just that it’s raw unplated stainless steel.

    A look under the base plate shows that there was a slight modification of the outline of the thin leaf (foil?) spring that opens the top cap to accommodate the new footprint of the handle’s neck. It’s that thin sheet that’s placed between the base plate and the neck of the handle.

    Looking into the open razor, we can see that also the width of the foil springs was reduced, but the cutouts on the back of the base plate still have the full width for the wider springs. It makes for a slightly more sluggish mechanism, and in the open position, a little bit of slack in lets the head jingle. No big deal, but distinctly cheap feeling. Lastly, they also dropped the grooves on the safety bar. Apparently, those “tough whiskers” don’t need setting up anymore for closer shaving?

    TL/DR, this looks and feels like the budget version of the Push-Button, which itself was a sub-par attempt at replicating the magic of the Flying Wing. #Sad

    The shave

    Fantastic warm and sweet shave with MotI, Haverford, and TV. These scents have been among my favourites since the beginning of my descent down the rabbit hole and they still are.

    The timeline

    1. 1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene
    2. 1914-1927: 1914
    3. 1924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead
    4. 1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)
    5. 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)
    6. 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
    7. 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
    8. 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
    9. 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
    10. 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
    11. 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
    12. 1958-1965: Push Button
    13. 1965-1973: ContourWe are here
    14. 1973-1979: Contour II (The last GEM razor)


  • GEM Days 12b/14: Push That Button – Thu 28 Nov 2024

    • Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
    • Razor: GEM Push-Button
    • Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
    • Lather: Capt. Fawcett’s – Fig, Olive and Bay Rum
    • Post Shave: Declaration Grooming – B Cubed

    Solid shave with Capt. Fawcett’s and the Push-Button. These mild modern GEMs are really good autopilot razors. Mild, efficient, intuitive.

    This was shave 24 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors:

    1. 1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene
    2. 1914-1927: 1914
    3. 1924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead
    4. 1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)
    5. 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)
    6. 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
    7. 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
    8. 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
    9. 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
    10. 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
    11. 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
    12. 1958-1965: Push ButtonWe are here
    13. 1965-1973: Contour
    14. 1973-1979: Contour II (The last GEM razor)