• Korhaka
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    8 hours ago

    Depends how far you want to go into it too though. I know the guy at Halfords hasn’t even heard of wax and they don’t sell it.

    Just looked it up and apparently need to rewax every time it gets wet? I live in the UK, that doesn’t sound practical at all.

    • Showroom7561@lemmy.ca
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      8 hours ago

      I know the guy at Halfords hasn’t even heard of wax and they don’t sell it.

      Unfortunately, a lot of bike shops are either ignorant to wax, or they don’t sell it on purpose because it’s too good. LOL Many of the brands you’ll find in a local bike shop are well known, but the wet lubes from those companies are terrible.

      Just looked it up and apparently need to rewax every time it gets wet? I live in the UK, that doesn’t sound practical at all.

      To put things into context: no matter how you lube your chain, including using oil-based wet lube, if you get your chain wet, it should be cleaned to remove contaminants from inside the pins/rollers.

      Wax provides a physical barrier against contaminants, and protects much better than oil lube (with attracts contaminants).

      I ride with fenders, so even the worst Canadian winters (salt, melted snow, road contaminants, etc.) don’t cause my chain to be contaminated. I can come home from a ride, give it a wipe with a microfiber cloth, and the cloth will look clean because nothing stuck to it.

      If it’s really bad, I just swap the chain out. Or, if I’m short on time, I’ll keep my chain on while I wash the crap off my bike, then use an air blower to get rid of any moisture. Seems to be working great.

      Wet chains = rusted chains for most people. Only chains with rust inhibitors (i.e. KMC Z8.1) will help, but keeping your chain dry will go a long way.

      If you are waxing your chains, and anticipate regular poor weather, I’d suggest having multiple chains in rotation. This ends up being much faster than cleaning and re-lubing a chain that has wet lube on it, and the chains continue to last forever while being clean.

      During the summer months, I’ll do an immersion wax every 1000-1500 km or so, but will “top up” with a wax drip lube every few hundred KM). The chain runs dead silent, clean enough for me to run my fingers along it without getting dirty (even after a 100km+ ride), and my drivetrain doesn’t wear out.

      I avoided waxing because I thought it would be too much trouble. But I’m saving way more time now, and I’m not ruining microfiber cloths and using solvents anymore!

      • Korhaka
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        8 hours ago

        Cleaning a chain every time it gets wet is kinda impractical isn’t it? That would be pretty much a daily task.

        • Showroom7561@lemmy.ca
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          6 hours ago

          Again, every chain, no matter the lube should be cleaned after a wet ride.

          Whether you choose to ignore that or not, totally depends on your goals.

          I use wipperman links, which allows me to remove my chain without tools. So it’s quite literally a 10-second swap, and only if the chain is too “dirty” (again, it really doesn’t get dirt when it’s waxed) to cleaned with a cloth.

          For context, I my first winter ate through chains, and all of my components were rusted by the spring no matter how obsessive I was about keeping things clean.

          This year, not a single bit of rust. No chain wear at all over thousands of KM. No wasted rags or solvents. And very little of my time went to chain maintenance.

          When I waxed my chain the first time, the experience was so positive, I immediately switched two other bikes over to waxed chains that same week.

          I ride a lot (min 500km a month over the winter), so if you are an occasional cyclist, then it may not be as profound of an experience.

          • Korhaka
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            6 hours ago

            Looking into the stuff needed for it, what product names should I look for? Almost everything is a liquid you put on the chain rather than a heat melted was which in comparison barely seems to exist.