I see this recommendation all the time. It frustrates me. I’m in favor of blocking ads and modding clients and whatever it takes to optimize one’s experience, but the majority - by far - of my YouTube experience takes place on my TV. I can’t do much to control it (pihole and other DNS solutions don’t work on YouTube since their ads are hosted in the same servers as their videos).
I could perform various modifications to the operating system of my TV, and trust me it’s tempting for a lot of reasons, but it was a very expensive (by my standards) TV so I want to at least wait until the warranty expires until I start experimenting.
I could also use something hooked up to my TV and mod that, which is my favorite idea, but my wife likes the interface as it is. It’s an LGTV with the … Sigh … “Magic” remote, which I absolutely hate, but I don’t want to take it away from her. It seems like that interface, especially the “magic” cursor, would be hard to replicate. I’d prefer not to go through the tedium of having two different systems.
Especially because we also have a console hooked up and no solution I’ve found so far has provided a simple way of switching between HDMI sources without running a disgusting number of cables. I did recently order a new receiver, so hopefully that helps with the multiple origins issue.
Obviously this is very much a a first world problem, and I apologize for my privilege, I just wanted to point out that uBO (or other software based solutions) aren’t always the solution.
Thanks for bringing this up, because it frustrates me as well. Most of the time I’m watching on a TV, and there’s no way to block YT ads on a TV. The people I share my house with aren’t technical and will watch YouTube even with ads. So to keep them out of my house I pay for YT premium.
Suggesting that people just do something technical and janky to block ads isn’t a solution for me, not because I can’t do it, but because there’s no way my family will do it.
It has been frustrating to read the various solutions that are all for PC or mobile, but there are some good solutions in this thread. Mad_Punda, who also replied to you separately, had what - at a glance - seemed like a pretty viable solution. Hopefully the new receiver I mentioned fixes things for me, but if not, I’ll be looking into his suggestion.
Good luck to you; though I don’t wish you to suffer, it’s nice to know I’m not alone.
I think there are ways, will likely vary by TV brand. I’ve set it up for my LG TV at home, it’s better than premium.
Edit: to clarify, I didn’t set up uBlock, I set up the TV with a patched TY app that has ad block and sponsor block. The latter makes it better than premium.
May I ask which devices (computers/keyboards) do you use for your screens? I’d like to do the same, since we mostly watch the same TV channels in my house and one subscription would cover most of the content my family watches.
If I lived alone, this would be the way for me as well.
I recently spoke to LG support, rather at length, about an unrelated issue. During that conversation I asked if there was a way to turn off the “magic” cursor because fuck do I hate it. Apparently, there is: turn on narration - that is, the accessibility option that reads anything you highlight on screen in case you have vision issues. Why are the two things related, you ask, and why is it a binary option? I’m sure the answer is because LG leadership wants you to use the cursor, but apparently they couldn’t think of a PR friendly answer, because every time I asked support changed the subject.
Woof… I’m so sorry you hafta deal with that. I hate anything listening to me. D: I’m thankful both my partner and myself love using keyboard with touchpad.
That’s why I mentioned the console. She and our kid both use that pretty extensively. Obviously I can switch the HDMI cables around manually as necessary, but they’re in a fairly awkward spot and I have some mobility issues. Once the new receiver arrives, I hope to be able to switch between devices using a remote, at which point I’m more likely to be plausibly able to do this.
Your general point is acknowledged and appreciated, though.
I totally get that, I have a few suggestions since I’ve been in the same situation for years and have recently improved it.
Our Yamaha stereo takes many HDMI inputs, and has a single TV output, so the TV never needs to change inputs. It’s quite easy and quick on the Yamaha.
I bought a Raspberry Pi 500 for ~$100 US and am loving it. I think it could use a speed upgrade (I hear the SD card will do it). Of course it’s mouse and keyboard, but we only use it for Netflix, YouTube, etc, so it was easy to make shortcuts and get a small/nice living room keyboard/mouse combo.
It’s led to zero ads, and the household discussion was like “would you trade some ease of use to not see this stupid ad?” And we both agreed that it’s worth it. So far it’s been really nice.
I have three of them and I love them! One TINY complaint is that if I’m all fucked up on drugs, the thumb sweat makes the touchpad very difficult to use. But that’s only a couple times a year, so it’s not a huge deal. My oldest is like eight years old and I have spilled on it, and it still works!
Thank you for the recommendation! I have, at this point, probably five forms of HDMI splitters, including at least two receivers (though admittedly no stereos). Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to get any of them working with the TV. I think, though I can’t confirm, that HDCP is the problem. The best I’ve managed to do is a multitude of sources plugged into the the splitter, but only two of them working; specifically my (original) switch and (also original) Steam Deck seem to be pretty recalcitrant.
I’m hoping the problem is the splitter / receiver. The new one, which promises HDCP compatibility, is set to arrive in four days. My fingers are metaphorically crossed. I’ve already replaced everything else but the consoles, so the next troubleshooting step, replacing the consoles, would be much more expensive.
I certainly haven’t had time to investigate them, but there are one or two decent solutions proposed in this thread. So far I think the “dev mode” suggestion is my favorite idea. I’ll look into that and try to remember to let you know how it goes.
I see this recommendation all the time. It frustrates me. I’m in favor of blocking ads and modding clients and whatever it takes to optimize one’s experience, but the majority - by far - of my YouTube experience takes place on my TV. I can’t do much to control it (pihole and other DNS solutions don’t work on YouTube since their ads are hosted in the same servers as their videos).
I could perform various modifications to the operating system of my TV, and trust me it’s tempting for a lot of reasons, but it was a very expensive (by my standards) TV so I want to at least wait until the warranty expires until I start experimenting.
I could also use something hooked up to my TV and mod that, which is my favorite idea, but my wife likes the interface as it is. It’s an LGTV with the … Sigh … “Magic” remote, which I absolutely hate, but I don’t want to take it away from her. It seems like that interface, especially the “magic” cursor, would be hard to replicate. I’d prefer not to go through the tedium of having two different systems.
Especially because we also have a console hooked up and no solution I’ve found so far has provided a simple way of switching between HDMI sources without running a disgusting number of cables. I did recently order a new receiver, so hopefully that helps with the multiple origins issue.
Obviously this is very much a a first world problem, and I apologize for my privilege, I just wanted to point out that uBO (or other software based solutions) aren’t always the solution.
Thanks for bringing this up, because it frustrates me as well. Most of the time I’m watching on a TV, and there’s no way to block YT ads on a TV. The people I share my house with aren’t technical and will watch YouTube even with ads. So to keep them out of my house I pay for YT premium.
Suggesting that people just do something technical and janky to block ads isn’t a solution for me, not because I can’t do it, but because there’s no way my family will do it.
It has been frustrating to read the various solutions that are all for PC or mobile, but there are some good solutions in this thread. Mad_Punda, who also replied to you separately, had what - at a glance - seemed like a pretty viable solution. Hopefully the new receiver I mentioned fixes things for me, but if not, I’ll be looking into his suggestion.
Good luck to you; though I don’t wish you to suffer, it’s nice to know I’m not alone.
I think there are ways, will likely vary by TV brand. I’ve set it up for my LG TV at home, it’s better than premium.
Edit: to clarify, I didn’t set up uBlock, I set up the TV with a patched TY app that has ad block and sponsor block. The latter makes it better than premium.
Oh and I can remove shorts.
If your wife wants her familiar interface with ads, then she made the choice that you’re watching ads on YouTube on your TV.
I agree. Once my warranty expires or I get brave enough to tinker with the OS hopefully the “ads” part will no longer be relevant.
LG AI Voice Remote?! That’s a huge no from me dawg hahaha
All of my screens just have computers hooked up to them, controlled by wireless keyboards with built-in touchpads. Adblocking on everything!
May I ask which devices (computers/keyboards) do you use for your screens? I’d like to do the same, since we mostly watch the same TV channels in my house and one subscription would cover most of the content my family watches.
If I lived alone, this would be the way for me as well.
I recently spoke to LG support, rather at length, about an unrelated issue. During that conversation I asked if there was a way to turn off the “magic” cursor because fuck do I hate it. Apparently, there is: turn on narration - that is, the accessibility option that reads anything you highlight on screen in case you have vision issues. Why are the two things related, you ask, and why is it a binary option? I’m sure the answer is because LG leadership wants you to use the cursor, but apparently they couldn’t think of a PR friendly answer, because every time I asked support changed the subject.
Woof… I’m so sorry you hafta deal with that. I hate anything listening to me. D: I’m thankful both my partner and myself love using keyboard with touchpad.
I love my wife extensively and for many reasons, but her respect for privacy concerns is not among them.
https://github.com/webosbrew/youtube-webos
Thank you for the recommendation and I’ll investigate this.
I haven’t personally used it, but a buddy likes it.
I recently set up dev mode on my LG TV and installed a patched version of YouTube with ad block and sponsor block. I don’t think this voids warranty.
If there’s interest I could look up the instructions I used (I’m traveling right now).
If things don’t work out with the receiver, I’ll look into this. Thank you for the suggestion.
Even if you have a device connected to your TV to block ads when you’re using Youtube, nothing prevents her from using the TV OS when she does.
That’s why I mentioned the console. She and our kid both use that pretty extensively. Obviously I can switch the HDMI cables around manually as necessary, but they’re in a fairly awkward spot and I have some mobility issues. Once the new receiver arrives, I hope to be able to switch between devices using a remote, at which point I’m more likely to be plausibly able to do this.
Your general point is acknowledged and appreciated, though.
I totally get that, I have a few suggestions since I’ve been in the same situation for years and have recently improved it.
Our Yamaha stereo takes many HDMI inputs, and has a single TV output, so the TV never needs to change inputs. It’s quite easy and quick on the Yamaha.
I bought a Raspberry Pi 500 for ~$100 US and am loving it. I think it could use a speed upgrade (I hear the SD card will do it). Of course it’s mouse and keyboard, but we only use it for Netflix, YouTube, etc, so it was easy to make shortcuts and get a small/nice living room keyboard/mouse combo.
It’s led to zero ads, and the household discussion was like “would you trade some ease of use to not see this stupid ad?” And we both agreed that it’s worth it. So far it’s been really nice.
Living room? Logitech k400!
I’ve been eyeing this little gadget, maybe it would solve the inconvenience issue?
Logitech K400 on all my machines!
thank you! i was hesitant to get one that was unbranded, but i am more inclined to get one by Logitech!
I have three of them and I love them! One TINY complaint is that if I’m all fucked up on drugs, the thumb sweat makes the touchpad very difficult to use. But that’s only a couple times a year, so it’s not a huge deal. My oldest is like eight years old and I have spilled on it, and it still works!
Thank you for the recommendation! I have, at this point, probably five forms of HDMI splitters, including at least two receivers (though admittedly no stereos). Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to get any of them working with the TV. I think, though I can’t confirm, that HDCP is the problem. The best I’ve managed to do is a multitude of sources plugged into the the splitter, but only two of them working; specifically my (original) switch and (also original) Steam Deck seem to be pretty recalcitrant.
I’m hoping the problem is the splitter / receiver. The new one, which promises HDCP compatibility, is set to arrive in four days. My fingers are metaphorically crossed. I’ve already replaced everything else but the consoles, so the next troubleshooting step, replacing the consoles, would be much more expensive.
You’re me but elsewhere it seems.
I don’t have a solution either unfortunately
I certainly haven’t had time to investigate them, but there are one or two decent solutions proposed in this thread. So far I think the “dev mode” suggestion is my favorite idea. I’ll look into that and try to remember to let you know how it goes.