• 4 Posts
  • 134 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: June 30th, 2023

help-circle


  • If it can destroy someone’s land and just really ruin their amount of mana available that turn (which means it can be done on someone else’s turn), it will usually make the incoming land enter untapped.

    Think Demolition Field and Field of Ruin, or NEO Boseiju.

    Krenko’s Buzzcrusher has the land enter tapped, but it’s usually being played at sorcery speed.

















  • To be more specific, there are 4 time zones in the contiguous 48 states: Pacific, Mountain, Central, and Eastern. Alaska is also one hour behind Pacific, and Hawaii (usually) one hour behind Alaskan. But Hawaii also doesn’t observe daylight savings time.

    This also doesn’t account for how some states (like Arizona) don’t observe DST while Navajo Nation (in Arizona) does, while Hopi land (surrounded by Navajo) doesn’t.

    Time is confusing.


  • Are you telling me you don’t like my (hypothetical) Child of Alara boardwipes deck?

    In actuality, I’m with you. I build my decks so that they’re fun to play, and hopefully fun to play against. A guy at my local store apparently only builds decks that are a slog to play against. Thalia and Gitrog death and taxes, with Winter Orb and fogs to show the game down so he can win with Gates. Norin thievery. Anikthea enchantment lockout, with multiple ways to populate copies of Sphere of Safety and other pillowfort enchantments. You get the idea.


  • Price doesn’t always equal power, but some big pieces are expensive.

    First of all, you should look at the cheapest value/printing for a card to really see what the “value” of your deck is. Spending on an older foil card can be vastly more expensive than the reprinted, non-foil version.

    Second, it kinda depends on what the money is being spent on. I dropped over $100 the other month just adding a fetchland and a few shocks into a 3-color deck. Spending money on a manabase, or on the staples that hold a deck together, isn’t the same as spending on the big combo pieces that do uniquely powerful things.

    As a rule of thumb, I know the price of my deck, but I don’t use it as a thermometer for how high-powered it is. I do use it as an indication of how invested I am in it, since the more I want it to perform, the more money I’ll throw into it.

    If price point is an issue with your pod, consider having your powerful pet decks and whatnot, but also setting up a budget deck where the total value of the deck (once again, using cheapest printings) must be below a price point. I’ve seen interesting budget formats where each card must be sub-$1, or Pauper EDH, or where the total value of the deck must be below $25, or $50, or $100. Discussion is the best thing about playing Commander, a social format. Figure out what makes everyone have a good time and roll with that.