That’s the size I have, so thanks a ton!

Nice! Just a tip, it would be helpful to mention the size of the pegboard, such as 1" distance with 1/4" holes. There are a few different sizes of pegboard.

Oh 3d printer resin is absolutely not UV resistant - resin printers use UV light to solidify the resin at each layer, and exposing a print to too much UV light after printing can cause UV burn, similar to a thermoplastic.

Coating the print in a UV resist clear coat should prevent UV light from reaching the print itself, and preventing the burn; think of it as sunscreen for your print 😉

Oh, another thought - you could use a UV blocking clear coat such as this on your print. I still would avoid PLA though, since it might get hot in the sun. It would be important to get a complete coat with that spray, even between layer lines. You might want to think about using a clear resin if you have access to a resin printer, since it would have a much smoother finish before being coated.

Hmmm, I would usually go for ASA for anything outside, but searching around for transparent ASA comes up empty… I guess maybe transparent ASA isn’t a thing? Too bad, since you could smooth it with acetone to make it even lower opacity. You could also look at Polycarbonate and PETG, which I know can be made transparent, but those might yellow a bit after a few years.

I’m interested in other people’s thoughts. Definitely a good question!

I was on an old repurposed desktop with 16gb ram and a i7 6700k at the time.

I haven’t felt that I’ve been missing any features from Gitlab. I do use Woodpecker-CI for runners because Forgejo action’s weren’t working for Docker builds, but I think the Forgejo actions have come a long way since I made that decision; I’ll have to try them out again one of these days.

I tried hosting Gitlab for a while, but configuration and upgrades were difficult, and your really have to stay on top of updates due to vulnerabilities. It also used a lot of resources and wasn’t super responsive.

I moved to Forgejo (a hard fork of Gitea), and haven’t looked back; I cant recommend it enough. It’s fast, doesn’t take a lot of resources, actively developed, and has all the features I need.

Codeberg is a public instance of Forgejo if you want to try it out first.

Regardless of whether you are using a block or an allow list, you have to maintain the list…

I’m not sure what your point is; if you want to devote your time, effort, and potential liabilities to it, that’s up to you. I just figured I would share a perspective on why I didn’t want to do that.

I appreciate all the hard work done by instance hosts; using individual Lemmy instances are a privelege, not a right. I would fully understand and not be upset if my home instance were to shut down at a moments notice.

Sure, but then you’re left with text only and are relying on your blocklist for URLs, which is just going to be a game of whack-a-mole. I personally didn’t want to have to worry about that in my free time, but I’m sure other folks feel differently.

I self hosted a Lemmy instance for a little while, but I stopped over concerns of malicious actors posting CSAM which would then get federated over to my server. I don’t have the appetite to deal with that, and I’m glad I shut it down because just a few weeks later there was a big instance of it happening all over Lemmy, and I’m sure I would have had to deal with cleaning it up on my server too. Just something to keep in mind.

Otherwise though, the setup process isn’t too complex.

And that choice is Robin Williams. The man was a gem 🥲

I’m 99% sure that it isn’t.

Frankly, once you get more than just a few cameras, being able to edit a config file is so much better than having to click through settings for literally hours like with Shinobi or Motioneye.

I’ve personally been quite pleased with the combination of Frigate and some Amcrest POE cameras. Just make sure the cameras you are getting support RTSP though and you should be able to use them with Frigate.

Also make sure you block the cameras from reaching the public internet using your firewall, and only make them reachable from your Frigate host. Personally I use a VLAN with no internet access and enforce tagging at the switch level (i.e. don’t trust the cameras to maintain their own VLAN) settings.

Looks a lot like a carburetor float needle to me. It allows the flow of gasoline into the float bowl, which sets the amount of fuel fed into the engine.

It’s common for float needles (and carb parts in general) to be made of brass, and the wire clip being made out of steel is also consistent with a float needle. The plastic tip is probably used for a better seal when the float is up, closing the needle port.

I wouldn’t bother with vacuum bags If I were you. I think it’s fine if you’re using a drying box after the filament has been sitting out a while. Doesn’t hurt to try and find out at least…

Personally, I just use a big plastic storage bin with a bunch of silica desiccant in it. I just busted out some polycarbonate (notoriously hydrophyllic) recently that had been sitting in there for 4+ months and printed straight away; no stringing or anything.

Never leave anything on the toilet tank lid - you may someday have to rush to get it off so that you can push the flapper down and stop any more water from going into the bowl.

I use the washable gluesticks for my polycarbonate prints. I just put PC prints under warm water for a few minutes and they pop right off. Gluesticks generally reduce bed adhesion though IME, so it’s a fine line to walk; I never use gluesticks with PETG for example because then the parts don’t stick to the bed enough.

This one is from 1988 (see the right edge, top). Larson already retired from being a cartoonist in 1995.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Far_Side

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