When it was brand new but it’s fine now.

It’s 1/2 x28 for the ppk. The op9A uses an aluminum adapter for 1/2x28 to 5/8x24. Which is the printed threads of the can. It can also be fully printed in the OP9 or OP9-P

Check out the documentation.

It came with the thread adapter

I also vouch for the OP9. Works and looks great on my ppk. If OP is trying to put in on the vz-61 someone made a ftn3 derivative that threads onto a barrel sleeve. Still waiting on my paperwork to clear to print that one.

The issue you’ll be facing is how perfect your concentricity will be. Anything printed is gonna have some give. You can’t really get that close unless you are making this out of metal on a lathe.

I’ve just been not worrying about it. I don’t anneal anymore. It got too brittle. Elongation at break was reduced due to it all becoming one crystal. A glock frame having a little flex isn’t that big of a deal and you shouldn’t have to worry about creep unless you put in into a situation with a constant force. Whenever you need something to not flex at all then there’s other materials. I still use pla+ for certain things that need to be more rigid yet aren’t exposed to heat that much. You’ve got pet-cf, pet-gf which are heat resistant and don’t start softening from moisture. I mean pet is what water bottles are made of.

Depends on the design. Most use threaded adapters encapsulated within another printed insert. Some are entirely printed and light weight like the OP9 and OP22. For the higher pressure rounds they are typically printed in high temp engineering filaments like PA-cf and reinforced in a carbon fiber tube or aluminum. For serialization the world is your oyster you can emboss it into the print itself or stamp it with a punch onto metal which is permanently attached to the supressor.

C’mon anything other than 100% infill on a suppressor? Those thin pieces aren’t gonna survive the blast in a polymer config.

Real and true

Literally violates the first amendment so I don’t think it’ll happen

It should be fine. If the website accepted it it should go through. I had an issue with mine I had gotten through printscan for capital armory. Worked a year ago and then wouldn’t recently. Had to edit the files in an encrypted viewer but I also emailed print scan to fix it which they did in a few days. Now I have 3 working copies. It’s all the same info so it doesn’t matter which one I submit.

Depending on printer you can dry it on the bed itself. I have a P1S resistor modded bed. Setting to “100C” makes it go to 130C and actual measured temp is around 110C. I cover the spool with an aluminized mylar sheet lined spool box to reflect heat. Leave it there for 10-12 hrs occasionally flipping and measuring the weight. Once I don’t get any more change in weight it’s done, I pulled out 10 grams of water on a new spool of sunlu pa6-cf. Then I feed through the eibos dryer box to keep dry during the print. I’ve been getting flawless results.

Best to just watch from afar now. No point in salvaging if you got hit with the friendly fire stray from the mods. Reddit is gonna reddit and if you were serious about printing guns you would have already come here. I made numerous references to here without directly linking and got an immediate ban.

There are some ultimak gas tubes that give you a pic rail it’s a 1-1 swap with the normal gas tube. Made of aluminum and they clamp directly to the barrel. Not sure of any printed options. If you’re willing to cad you could slap some rails on Ivan’s dong.

Do you mean replace the receiver? My plastikov (v4) still uses the original hand guard/gas tube and pistol grip. There is a printable dong grip out there. Not so sure about gas tube. Definitely some printed grips out there. The stock can be whatever you want now that it’s a picatinny rail. MAF arms has the necessary parts to complete a printed plastikov v4 after you’ve removed the front trunnion. Or you could buy one of their populated barrel assemblies and start a new build there.

Ya pet cf is just a bit too stiff for taking loads like that. It’s good for mags and grips and rails. I’ve heard pet gf is better and I’ve been using that a lot more for frames.

okaayyyy

Removed by mod

It is easier and much more cost effective to just get a neoprene sheet and cut the wipes out yourself.

Glue is necessary with nylons on the textured pei bed. It will curl up and break away instantly without it. I bare hand cf nylons and my skin is fine. I feed from an ams with dessicant to keep it dry during print. Annealing is a hot button topic and not always necessary.