Hi Bakers, this is an article I recently wrote for my microbakeries blog.

What is Artisan Bread and Why should I Care?

There is a ‘artisan bread’ movement composed of bakeries who are striving to increase the quality of the products they sell. Some of the traits of ‘artisan bread’ include:

  • Longer, slower fermentation.
  • Being fermented using a live sourdough starter culture.
  • Made using wholemeal or stoneground flour
  • Made using local flour, preferably produced by a traditional mill, using locally-grown grain.
  • Made from certified organic ingredients.
  • Made from a variety of flavorful grains.

Why does it matter?

Bread has been a primary source of nutrition since the dawn of human civilization. Prior to industrialization, all bread was ‘artisan bread’. One by one, each pillar of artisan bread was knocked down to increase production yields.

Shortened fermentation time speeds up an assembly line, but yields less flavorful and digestible bread. Many people with gluten/wheat sensitivity report being able to enjoy long-fermented bread without an issue.

Lab-isolated yeast cultures enable consistency in an industrial product, but wild lactic acid bacteria and wild yeasts improve flavor and extend shelf-life of bread without additives or preservatives.

White flour can be stored for years and shipped across the world, but the perishable germ has most of the flavor and nutrition in the wheat kernel. The wheat bran is also an important source of dietary fiber.

Out-of-state, industrially grown wheat is cheap, but takes business away from our communities. When bakers are able to communicate with millers and family farmers, grain products can be tailored for their purpose.

Chemically-treated wheat increases yield, but raises potential health concerns. The majority of wheat growers in the US spray crops with glyphosate before harvesting to make them easier to thresh, but this can leave measurable traces of the chemical in the flour.

Industrial wheat strains were designed to maximize yield and pest resistance, but lack the flavor and nutrition found when using a variety of grains. There are many ancient, heirloom, and modern artificially selected variants of wheat that elevate bread.

Is technology bad for bread?

No. I don’t believe that using modern technology and techniques for wheat, flour and bread production is inherently bad. It is the choices we make on how we use the technology that can determine the flavor and health of the final product.

It should be the mission of artisan bakeries to make good choices on when and how to use technology to maximize flavor and nutrition, while closing the circle of production (grower, miller, baker, community). We should also work to develop the best practices, supplier relationships, baking techniques and recipes at a small scale, with an eye for responsibly scaling up production later.