My goto on a glass bed was blue painters tape applied with a spatula or flat tool. I discovered that the natural oils off my fingers transfered to the painters tape when applying making the first layer fail to stick every time.
PETG is a diva. If something’s not perfect, it refuses to print. My CR-10 had the infamous first version of the Creality bed springs, and vibrations would cause enough movement of the tramming springs, the print would fail. Even watching it put down a perfect line of filament, it would move and fail during the first layer on a larger print. My problems mostly went away after upgrading bed springs.
Also, I live in a swampy area, I have to print PETG out of a heated dryer set to 55 degrees all the time. That took care of almost all of the other problems.
PETG is softer than PLA, so the extruder “bites” it differently. Calibrating my e-steps for PETG was the final key to printing great PETG parts.
I still think ASA is easier for me to print than PETG.
My goto on a glass bed was blue painters tape applied with a spatula or flat tool. I discovered that the natural oils off my fingers transfered to the painters tape when applying making the first layer fail to stick every time.
PETG is a diva. If something’s not perfect, it refuses to print. My CR-10 had the infamous first version of the Creality bed springs, and vibrations would cause enough movement of the tramming springs, the print would fail. Even watching it put down a perfect line of filament, it would move and fail during the first layer on a larger print. My problems mostly went away after upgrading bed springs.
Also, I live in a swampy area, I have to print PETG out of a heated dryer set to 55 degrees all the time. That took care of almost all of the other problems.
PETG is softer than PLA, so the extruder “bites” it differently. Calibrating my e-steps for PETG was the final key to printing great PETG parts.
I still think ASA is easier for me to print than PETG.